If you’ve ever been gone into Sak’s Fifth Ave or Brioni or any of the high-end couturiers, you’ll notice that the attendants who “assist” you in the store are hot shit (or so they believe). They want to feel the opulence from your stride, smell the Acqua Di Parma linger from your collar, and see the money pour like from your pockets. If you hesitate for even a moment while in conversation with them, they will most likely deem you unworthy of the products that line the store shelves.
This sort of demanding attitude blows and makes you feel like a fat five-year old, but it happens. The best defense against this sort of approach is to be knowledgeable and dignified. Do you know what kind of shirt you’re wearing? The fabric? What tie goes best with which collar? Well, gentlemen, those obnoxious auxiliaries do, and in a lot of ways they’re one step ahead. So here are simplified fundamentals to your men's dress shirt, and you’re Excalibur in the couture duel:
Fabrics
· Oxford cloth: Industrial, but in a sporty, preppy schoolboy way. You can count on this shirt to last you a lifetime.
· Royal Oxford: The rich uncle of the former. It’s woven a little finer, and has more of a flowing line to it.
· Chevron: Classic, timeless herringbone pattern (the one that looks like a bunch of V’s are lined up in alternating colors). This is for the more formal events when you want to show off your sophisticated side.
· End-on-End: The mixed weave of white thread and colored thread gives the shirt a pinpoint look. A nice impression for interviews and moms.
· Broadcloth: Comfortable, and it breathes with you; yet remains extremely professional. Perfect for the workplace
Collar + Tie = Style
· Button down + Medium-width + Standard Gray/Navy Blazer = All-American
· Spread + Medium to Wide in a four-in-hand knot + Two-button suit = Confident and Debonair
· Long point + Skinny to skinnier + Three-button suits = Modern and Chic
· Semi-spread + Medium to skinny + Any suit = Conservative, yet Classic
Cuffs
· Convertible: Adjustable buttons! Can be narrower or wider so try throwing in a larger watch
- French: A little on the dressier try, but can be used for business or date settings. Try putting on some flashier cufflinks or opening the cuff.
· Two-button barrel: Super dressier and super fly.
· Single-button standard: Simple, handsome. Make sure they reach the hinge of your wrist!
Alright, men. I’ve laid out your shit, so learn it and use it! These details impress attendants, women, men, and everyone else, but most of all, they are helpful to you and can allow to make your clothes work for you. Get your money’s worth out of every dress shirt, and really see what looks best on you. I can’t wait to watch you spit fire and then watch those snooty bitches cower away. Make me proud.
This post was by Youmi Park, Blank Label's fashionista custom men's dress shirts co-creator and writer for our Co-Creation Blog.
